|
Sponging,
rag-rolling, stippling and paneling are a few of the decorative
paint techniques that can give your home unique charm and
character. Beautiful dapple color effects can be achieved
with minimal materials and the most basic instruction. Start
off with a simple, basic project and before you know it you'll
have the confidence to create your own design ideas and bring
these techniques into every room in the house.
Broken
Color Techniques with Glazes and Washes
Most specialty painting techniques
involve "broken color," a term that means applying one or
more colors in broken layers over a different base coat to
create a mottled or textured effect. Most of the time these
techniques employ glazes or washes applied over a solid colored
background color. Glazes are made of oil-based paints mixed
with linseed oil and are more transparent than washes. They
give a sleek glow to walls. They work best when the technique
requires the paint to remain open and workable for longer
periods of time. Washes are simply latex paint that has been
thinned with water to produce color that appears fresher,
purer and more delicate than that of a glaze. Washes, unlike
glazes, will also show brush marks which adds a greater sense
of depth and texture. They are also easier to make, modify
and clean up which makes them the best choice for beginners.
Decorative
painting projects involve more than just putting paint on
the wall. To ensure that your time and creativity have been
worth the effort, make sure you do thorough surface preparation.
This includes: washing away any dust, dirt and mildew; filling
cracks and holes; and priming where necessary.
BACK
TO TOP
Burgundy
Faux Finish
Step
1: Prepare the surface.
As with any paint project, be sure to clean and prepare the
surface properly before
beginning
your project. See our Interior Prep,
Prime and Paint for details on the surface
you’ll be painting.
Step 2: Choose the specific colors for your project.
The faux technique shown will utilize a deep tone latex burgundy
paint as the base coat. You can use this technique with a
wide range of basecoats and glazes that would suit your particular
home Decorative techniques work best with eggshell or low
sheen paints rather than dead flats.
The glaze coat for the Burgundy faux should be a mix of a
deep brown latex paint plus Latex Glaze mixture. Mix ratio
is 4 to 1 (4 parts glaze to 1 part latex paint) to impart
translucency and workability to the glaze. Be sure to use
Latex Glaze with Latex Paint.
Step 3: Test the technique.
Purchase a few foam boards to test the technique and color
combinations before applying to the wall. Once boards have
been painted and dried, put in different locations in the
room to see the color in different lights – both daylight
and artificial light.
Step
4: Apply the decorative finish.
Apply basecoat, first ‘cutting’ out around ceiling,
corners, baseboards and doors. Roller apply basecoat using
medium nap roller to minimize roller tracks. Deep tone paints
often require multiple coats to cover the surface. Using top
quality paints will give you the best coverage. Allow basecoat
to dry thoroughly.
Prepare the 4:1 latex glaze/deep tone brown paint mixture
and pour into a roller tray lined with plastic liner. Fill
reservoir of roller tray with glaze, you will be using ‘flat’
portion to ‘offload’ your decorative tool.
‘Prepare’ a sea sponge(s) by soaking in water
to soften, then squeeze out all excess water. Dip sponge into
glaze mixture, ‘offload’ by dabbing sponge on
flat part of roller tray, then apply to wall in random pattern.
Glaze can either be dabbed onto wall, angling wrist –
or glaze can be ‘wiped’ onto wall with sponge
and then ‘blotted’ with a clean sponge to achieve
desired look.
The important thing to remember when applying glaze is to
work in small areas so a ‘wet edge’ can be maintained,
i.e. keeping the glaze wet until the desired look is achieved.
Many people use a partner to help them with faux projects
– both to make it more fun and to work quickly to maintain
the wet edge. Always start at the corners and work across
a wall.
One tricky part of creating a realistic faux look is to make
the corners and edges (ceiling and baseboards) look like the
rest of the wall. One tip is to first mask the edges, then
find a sponge that has a flat edge. Cut small pieces of that
sponge to make it easier getting into the small, straight
spaces.
Have fun – and remember that using top
quality paints and tools will help you achieve
the results you want and ensure those results will last.
BACK
TO TOP
Creative
Armoires with Chalkboard Paint
Painting the inside doors of a repurposed or unfinished armoire
can
personalize this piece
for your children. Using Chalkboard paint
creates a fun, creative surface for your child, but one that
can be hidden when play time is over.
As with any painting project, surfaces preparation and priming
are important to ensure the finish looks great - and lasts
through many years of use.
Chalkboard paints are available at many paint companies stores
and home centers. The primary colors are either black or green,
although a few specialty companies provide other colors. A
web search may be the best way to find these.
For your Unfinished Wood armoire, here are the 'steps to success'.
1. Step One - Surface Preparation:
. dull any glossy areas of wood ("mill glaze") by sanding
with medium (#120) grit
garnet paper; wear eye protection, dust mask and work
gloves
. fill any gouges with wood filler; let dry and sand flush
. lightly sand the entire area to be painted with fine (#220)
grit garnet paper,
then dust off with clean rags
. It's VERY Important to remove all dust or wood fibers so
chalkboard finish will
be smooth.
2. Step Two - Priming:
. priming is neede to ensure adhesion of topcoat, stain blocking
and sheen
or gloss uniformity
. prime all surfaces to be painted, using a top quality stain
blocking primer
| |
- Many chalkboard
paints are water based, and a top quality interior stain
blocking latex primer will work well |
| |
- Some chalkboard paints
are supplied in spray cans. Be sure to check with the
paint professional at the store for recommendations
on primers for this type of chalkboard undercoat. |
3. Step Three - Painting
. use top quality chalkboard paint in the color of your choice,
following manufacturer
recommendation for application (either roller, foam
brush or nylon brush). Two coats
will give you the most durable finish.
. Most latex paints require
a one week cure before use. It is also recommended to
'condition' the chalkboard by lightly rubbing chalk
held horizontally over the entire
surface, then washing the surface with a damp cloth.
Your 'chalkboard' will then
be ready for years of use.
To personalize the chalkboard, consider stenciling around
the outside perimeter of the chalkboard with numbers, letters,
animals or 'themes' from the room décor and your child's name.
Use colors that will complement or contrast with the room's
color scheme. Visit our Digital Color Wheel for ideas.
BACK TO TOP
Color
Blocking
 Color
blocking involves painting several colors (usually at least
three) in various-sized “blocks” on the wall. Because
of its visual interest, this technique is usually done on
one wall in a room, and often takes the place of artwork --
behind a sofa, for example.
The
key is to draw the blocks in different dimensions -- varied
sizes of squares and rectangles -- and map them out in a geometric,
visually balanced arrangement on the wall. These blocks should
be sketched on paper, then transferred to the wall and outlined
lightly in pencil, then filled in with paint. Make several
copies of the final design on paper for practice. Use these
to play with the arrangement of colors in the design, then
pick your favorite and start painting!
Choosing
colors for this technique can be fun, but there are some things
to keep in mind to help achieve the look you’re after:
•
Colors from the same color card, but in varying intensities,
will give your room a sophisticated, monochromatic appeal.
If you’re looking for subtlety, choose colors that are
next to each other on the card.
•
Two or three harmonious colors and a third accent hue of either
black or white creates a dramatic look.
•
For a fun, playful look, choose complementary colors (those
that are opposite one another on the color wheel) such as
yellow and violet.
•
It is helpful to use colors of the same value, or intensity,
by choosing ones that are in the same position on several
color cards --- the second up from the bottom, for example.
This helps achieve a feeling of balance in the finished job.
•
If you decide to use colors of varying intensities, you may
want to experiment with several practice designs. Using more
of the brighter hue will give you a bold look, while using
more of the lighter one will be more soothing. Remember that
the practice design is much smaller than the final product,
and any color you use will intensify once it’s on a wall.
Color-blocking:
How To’s
•
Draw blocks in varied sizes of squares and rectangles on a
sheet of paper. Lay them out in a geometric, visually balanced
arrangement.
• Make several smaller copies of the final design on
paper, then practice with your chosen colors or experiment
with different combinations.
•
Once the final pattern and color scheme is set, trace the
blocks onto the wall, outlining lightly with a pencil and
level.
•
Tape off lines using Painter’s tape (not masking tape),
then paint with your choice of colors.
BACK
TO TOP
Dragging
Dragging techniques are most often
used on smooth surfaces like six-panel doors, so good surface
preparation is essential. If doors are your intended project,
remember they get constant use so a high quality 100% acrylic
latex gloss paint is a good choice. High quality gloss alkyd
paints also work well; however, they will have higher odor
and take longer to dry.
Follow
these steps to achieve a beautiful effect - predominately
the color of the topcoat, with hints of basecoat showing through:
- Prepare
the door - fill cracks, sand and clean
- Paint
with two layers of base coat, allowing to dry between
each.
- Dilute
the top coat (greens and other bright colors work well)
with one part paint to one part glaze (if using latex
paint, use a latex glaze; if using alkyd paint, use an
oil based glaze)
- Using
a dragging brush (or long haired paint brush), apply a
thin layer of the colored glaze/topcoat mixture. Work
with long vertical strokes, drawing the brush from top
to bottom, maintaining even pressure and keeping brush
strokes as parallel as possible.
- To
avoid obvious brush marks at the point where dragging
begin, use your free hand to hold the bristles firmly
while starting this technique.
BACK
TO TOP
Distressing
 To
create an aged look, use this technique for furniture, cabinets,
vanities and more.
Step
1
Choose two colors that complement your existing color scheme.
Apply the base color and let dry (1 -2 hours for latex paint
and 2 - 3 hours for alkyd paints - alkyd paints may still
be tacky).
Step
2
Using 100 grit sandpaper, lightly sand off patches of paint,
letting the surface below show through. Clean surface and
let dry 24 hours.
Step
3
Repeat the above process using the second color. Let dry 24
hours. For extra protection of the distressed look, apply
a coat of clear lacquer. Be sure to use a latex or water based
lacquer if you have used latex paints in your project; alkyd
lacquer if you worked with alkyds paints.
BACK
TO TOP
Creating
a custom faux fireplace 
Celebrate the warmth of Thanksgiving in
any climate by designing a custom“faux fireplace”
using paint! Although a faux fireplace can be created anywhere
within the home, the addition of this whimsical visual design
element is especially exciting when located in non-traditional
living spaces. For example, consider personalizing an accent
wall in a formal dining room, a breakfast nook in a country
kitchen or a sitting area in a spacious master bedroom with
a unique faux fireplace.
It is a good idea for decorating enthusiasts
who plan to tackle the project on their own, to map out their
design on a large poster board prior to applying onto
the actual wall surface. A faux fireplace can be as large
or as small as you prefer,
depending upon your preferences and the size and shape of
your wall space. If you
have always yearned for a river rock fireplace, consider applying
“faux” river rocks to
construct your fireplace!
And don’t forget the mantel! To add
dimension and depth to your faux fireplace, an interesting
decorative mantel can be purchased from a local salvage yard
or antique store. A mantel can also be constructed using various
architectural trims and moldings that are available at the
local home improvement center. Add dynamic color to any mantel
by personalizing with paint. Special effect paint techniques
create interesting surfaces, such as a distressed looks upon
a mantel that will grace a faux antique fireplace. Regardless
of the climate where you reside, you can bring a fireplace
into your home, thanks to the creative use of paint!
Creating a faux fireplace can be fun and
rewarding. Planning is most important, so best to line up
all your materials first.
Step 1
Decide on the size, location and design of your fireplace.
Using either poster board or a computer program, make a mock
up of your room with the fireplace to be sure it looks the
way you want it to.
Step2
Trace the shape of the fireplace onto the wall, using
a level to insure your
lines are straight and plumb for rectangular or square shapes.
For a curved, semi circular shape, you’ll need to use
a shape to outline.For either design, you’ll need to
draw in the outline of the fireplace, the face and the firebox.
Step 3
Create the ‘hearth’ using wood frame
for a raised hearth – or level the area on the floor
in front of the fireplace for a ground level hearth. If tiling
this part, follow manufacturer’s instructions for
installing tile. Another option is to paint the hearth using
either decorative paint techniques or block designs. For the
decorative techniques, see our Design Center. For the blocked
design, seal the wood,then paint the ‘grout’ color.
Using tape,mask off the grout lines, then apply the color
or decorative technique you plan to use for the blocks.
Step 4
For the ‘face’ of the fireplace, choose
a design that will match or be compatible with your hearth.
They don’t have to be exactly the same, but should blend
– color and texture.
Techniques such as marbleizing, faux brick, faux slate, or
just painted wood are all ideas to
think about.
Step 5
For the ‘firebox’, paint this area in
a flat black paint to create a shadow look.
Step 6
The mantel can either be built or purchased. Again,
there are unlimited possibilities. It can be finished for
a natural wood look; it can painted with the new high gloss
latex paints or stenciled or distressed. Again, these decisions
must all be made before starting the project and should match
or complement the existing color palette in your room.
Step 7
Add a brass, glass or fabric fireplace screen to
finish the project that will enhance the value of your home
and amaze your family and friends.
BACK
TO TOP
Harlequin
Design
 Harlequin
is achieved by using two paint hues. First, paint the wall
surface with the lighter, low sheen color and let dry completely.
Next, tape off the wall sections in an elongated diamond pattern
or cut a diamond template and trace the pattern on the wall
surface. Of course, the size of the wall typically determines
how large the diamond pattern should be. A good rule of thumb
is the diamond height should be approx. twice the width. The
diamonds should touch along the width and can circle the room
as a border. Or, one wall can be the focal point with the
diamonds lined up both horizontally and vertically.
Paint
the "diamond" pattern in the darker of the two colors—the
sheen of the second paint should be the same as the base coat.
This pattern can be quite bold if the color choices employed
are complementary or it can be a subtle backdrop when completed
in a monochromatic scheme.
BACK
TO TOP
Marbling
 Marbling
results can vary as much as the marbles you are trying to
imitate. It’s a good idea to have a piece of marble you
like before starting your project to mimic its colors and
veining. Choose base coats and top coats to match the desired
base marble and the textured effects respectively.
Steps
to achieving a white marble effect:
- Prepare
the surface - clean, sand, fill imperfections; remove all
residues
- Apply
two coats of white basecoat, allowing each to dry thoroughly.
Mix raw sienna color with one tablespoon each of white spirit
and oil glaze. If using latex paints, mix the sienna color
with acrylic latex glaze. Apply sparingly with an artists
brush.
- With
a small cloth, wipe away varying amounts of wet glaze, allowing
patches of light and dark to form.
- To
create the "veins" of marble, use a thin artist
brush to apply the sienna glaze in lines, varying thickness
to achieve desired look.
BACK
TO TOP
Painting
Clouds
 1.
Paint ceiling with a top quality interior low lustre or satin
latex paint in a sky blue hue. We don’t recommend flat
paint for this technique. Sometimes it’s fun to bring
the sky blue paint down onto the side walls (by about a foot)
This will give your ceiling a three dimensional look.
2. Allow blue paint to dry thoroughly
3. Determine where you want to place your
clouds, including portions of clouds on the walls if you painted
them. You can use chalk marks to guide your cloud design process.
4. Materials for clouds:
| |
a.
Top quality interior white latex paint (either satin or
semi gloss)
|
| |
b.
Latex glaze
|
| |
c.
Cotton Rags
|
5. Mix 1 part white
paint with 3 parts latex glaze to make ‘cloud glaze’
6. Using a rolled up cotton rag, apply the
cloud glaze to the ‘cloud’ area. Using rags give
you better control over the amount of paint. Clouds should
be ‘heavier’ in the center and lighter around
the edges.
7. To add more color and perspective, after
the cloud is completely dry (>24 hours) add touches of
pink, purple or hellow glaze to small sections of the cloud.
Make these color glazes the same way you did the white cloud
glaze.
BACK
TO TOP
Sheen
Striping
 Sheen
striping is a technique that involves painting vertical stripes
of the same color, but differing sheens, for a subtle, sophisticated
look. It is often used in dining rooms, above the chair rail,
or in areas that need some visual “height” due to
a low ceiling.
For
this technique, you might choose an eggshell and a semigloss
product, which will create visual interest without being overwhelming.
The sheen difference should be somewhat subtle, so a flat
and a high gloss may not be the best combination. In terms
of color choice, let your personal preference be your guide.
If you need some direction, though, here is some advice:
•
For dining rooms, red is often the color of choice. Red stimulates
the appetite -- which is why you see it on so many restaurant
walls. Green is also a good color for this room, as green
is the color of many foods.
•
Hallways and foyers can benefit from the a “welcoming”
color, like yellow, or a shade of orange, like peach or terra-cotta.
•
Bedrooms can become serene havens or romantic escapes by using
colors like pale blue, green, or lavender.
Sheen
Stripes: How To’s
Materials required:
1. Painter's tape. Enough to stripe
the entire room or object. Be sure to use painter’s tape
(something like 3M’s Blue Tape) which will not stick
as much and be less likely to pull up the flat base coast
when removed.
2. Level and/or ruler
3. Quality interior acrylic flat paint
4. Quality acrylic interior semi-gloss paint (same hue or
color as the flat paint)
5. Rollers, paint brushes, drop cloths, paint roller trays,
stir sticks, trash bags
Step by Step Directions:
1. Make sure the wall surface or object
you will paint is clean and sound.
2. Paint the wall(s) with quality acrylic interior flat or
eggshell paint first. Let dry completely - overnight or longer.
3. Using painter's tape and a level, mark off the area to
be painted with SG paint--typically in a vertical pattern.
The usual width for each stripe is 3" to 6". The
larger the space, the wider the stripe should be. It might
help to have a second person help with the taping. Each "flat"
and semi-gloss stripe should be the same width. Use the level
to insure your lines are perfectly vertical.
4. Paint the area to be "striped" with quality semi-gloss
paint - same color as the flat paint. Let dry 2 to 3 hours,
then carefully remove the painters tape. Have a trash can
or bag handy to toss the painter's tape in.
5. Enjoy this beautiful decorative technique!
BACK
TO TOP
Sponging
 Sponging
On is a quick and simple technique that begins with the application
of a solid base paint color. After the base coat dries, a
wash or glaze is applied on top with a dampened sponge to
create a mottled look. More than one glaze or wash color can
be applied but each layer must be allowed to dry thoroughly
before the next application. Beginners may want to try neutral
tones of beige and grey or different values of color in the
same family for a tone on tone damask effect. Lighter colors
are typically applied over darker ones to create depth, but
the opposite can be done for more definition and texture.
Sponging Off is accomplished by applying a uniform glaze coat
over the solid base with a brush or roller. Before the glaze
coat begins to dry, use the sponge to remove some of the glaze
to expose the undercoat. When sponging always use a natural
sea sponge instead of a synthetic household type for a more
varied and interesting texture.
BACK
TO TOP
Ragging
and Rag Rolling
 These
techniques give walls the dramatic effect of crushed velvet,
parchment, chamois leather, watered silk or brocade. Begin
with the application of a solid color base and allow it to
dry. For "ragging on," dip a crumpled cloth in a glaze or
wash and blot on the wall. "Ragging off" involves lifting
off part of the glaze coat to reveal the under coat. "Rag-rolling
on" requires the painter to roll the cloth into a sausage
shape of varying tightness. Lightly dip the roll into the
glaze and apply to the base coat with a rolling motion. For
"rag-rolling off" roll a slightly dampened rolled cloth through
the wet glaze coat to reveal the undercoat. Different fabric
will create different effects. Popular materials include linen,
lace, and burlap, but almost any natural fiber material will
do as long as it is clean and lint-free. Layering glazes works
well with this technique as long as each layer is allowed
to dry thoroughly.
BACK
TO TOP
Stippling
This technique achieves more subtle results than rag rolling
or sponging and can be best described as suede-like. The process
starts with the solid base coat which can be either a light
or dark tone. After the base coat dries, the painter begins
working from one side of the wall to the other, applying a
different color topcoat (either paint or a wash) in 12" wide
strips from ceiling to floor. Working quickly before the paint
begins to set, the painter stabs at the wet paint with a large
soft-bristled brush, removing dots of paint. To keep the brush
absorbent, the painter should periodically blot the excess
paint from the stippling brush. This process breaks up the
wall color into a mass of very small dots which lends richness
to the finish. Usually stippling involves just two topcoat
colors of paint or wash. Additional colors can be incorporated
into the color scheme by stippling the paint or wash on, rather
than off. To do so, simply stab later colors on with a soft-bristled
brush.
BACK
TO TOP
|
In
all instances it is best to practice on a cardboard box or
another surface before beginning to apply the technique on
your walls. Get a sense for how much glaze to remove and what
level of firmness you need to achieve the results you want.
When you're confident you have the technique down, begin on
your walls. 
